Upgrades
Today, we have a wide variety of materials, construction methods, and heating technologies that can dramatically reduce the energy consumption of your new home, improve air quality, and lower your operating costs. Your Sustainable Housing Energy Advisor will work closely with you to arrive at the right combination of upgrades to optimize energy savings and rebates, and to maximize the return on your investment.
Here are some examples of energy efficiency upgrades for new home construction:
Attic:
In most homes, the attic is the easiest and most cost effective area to insulate. Attics in most new homes are insulated with blown-in fibreglass or cellulose insulation.
Read MoreBlown-in insulation has the added advantage of forming a continuous thermal blanket over your entire ceiling, dramatically reducing the heat loss that occurs as a result of thermal bridging.
While minimum code requires attics to be insulated to an R value of 40, we recommend an R value of 50-60. It is also important to insist on a raised heel truss so that you get the full depth of the insulation at the eaves.
Windows:
There have been significant improvements in window construction in recent years. A newer Energy Star vinyl window is approximately 50% more efficient than a conventional double-pane vinyl frame window.
Read MoreEnergy Star is a certification program designed to ensure windows meet certain minimum specifications, including:
Low E, or low emissivity coating: This is a thin, invisible coating on the glass surface that causes more of the infra-red energy in the room to be reflected back into the room during the heating season. It has a similar effect in the summer, reflecting energy from the sun to the exterior, helping to keep the interior cooler.
Argon gas filled: The space between the glass panes is filled with argon gas instead of air. Argon is a more viscous gas than air, resulting in a higher insulating value.
Insulated spacers: The glass spacers in an Energy Star window are made of a non-metallic insulating material. Because metal is a superb heat conductor, metal spacers on older windows account for a significant amount of heat loss.
Air tightness: Energy Star windows must also meet certain air tightness standards resulting in less cold air infiltration.
Window orientation should also be considered when designing your new home. South facing windows offer the benefit of solar gain, while North facing windows do not. Higher efficiencies can be achieved by orienting the larger windows more to the South and smaller windows more to the North.
Doors:
Newer, Energy Star rated doors offer greater insulating value and air tightness as compared to conventional wood or steel doors.
Read MoreIf there is a window in an Energy Star rated door, that window is also Energy Star rated.
Energy Star rated doors are available in conventional steel finishes, or in fibreglass finishes for a more natural wood appearance.
Main Walls:
Today’s high-performance insulating materials and sophisticated application procedures make it possible to achieve significantly higher insulation values in the walls than in previous years.
Read MoreAs a minimum, we recommend a minimum R value of 25 for wall insulation. The preferred method of achieving R25 walls is by insulating the wall cavity with R20 fibreglass batts, and adding a layer of R5 rigid board insulation on the exterior under the siding. The exterior layer of insulation improves the effective R value of the wall assembly by significantly reducing the heat loss that occurs as a result of thermal bridging.
Higher R values can easily be obtained by installing R24 high density fibreglass batts in the wall cavity, and up to R10 rigid insulation under the siding, for a total R value of up 34. As an alternative to fibreglass batts, spray foam insulation can be applied in the wall cavity, offering the advantage of improved air sealing.
Your main walls make up the largest exterior surface area in your home. Upgrading wall insulation can therefore have a major impact on reducing your overall energy consumption.
Basement Walls:
Un-insulated or poorly insulated basement walls can result in a significant amount of heat loss, even if the basement is not used as living space. Concrete has a very low insulation value, and as long the temperature in the basement is higher than the outdoor temperature, there is heat loss through the basement wall.
Read MoreThankfully, there are various effective methods and materials for insulating basement walls. The most common include spray foam insulation, rigid board insulation, fibreglass batts, or a combination of rigid board and fibreglass.
Insulated concrete form construction, or “ICF”, is also a very effective way to insulate a basement. With ICF construction, the concrete wall is poured in between two layers of rigid foam insulation, resulting in a continuous layer of insulation on both sides of the concrete wall. ICF is also the preferred method of construction for frost walls on slab houses as it provides insulation in an area that is not accessible after the house is framed.
Your Sustainable Housing Energy Advisor can advise you on various options for insulating the basement walls in your home.
Basement Floor/Slab:
Whether your house is built on a slab or has a full basement, the slab or basement floor insulation should not be overlooked when designing your new home. Because heat radiates in all directions, including down, a significant amount of heat loss can occur through the basement floor.
Read MoreFurthermore, regardless of how far below ground your basement floor is, if left un-insulated, it will be cooler than the rest of your house and will present a surface on which condensation will occur.
We recommend a minimum of R10 rigid board insulation under the poured concrete floor. There will never be a better time to insulate the slab than before the concrete floor is poured!
Heating Systems:
Today, we have high efficiency alternatives to conventional heating systems. In particular, heat pumps can dramatically reduce the amount of energy required to heat your home.
Read MoreThere are two basic types of heat pumps:
Air Source Heat Pumps: These draw energy from the air outside and use that energy to heat the inside of your home. Air source heat pumps use 2-3 times less energy than oil or electric baseboard heating systems. Delivery is typically a fully ducted forced air system. In some cases, ductless heat pumps may be suitable in smaller homes.
Geothermal heat pumps: Also known as “ground source” heat pumps. These draw energy from the ground and use that energy to heat the inside of your home. Because the energy is captured below the frost line, where the temperature remains relatively constant even on the coldest days of the winter, they are even more efficient than air source heat pumps. Delivery is typically a fully ducted forced air system or in-floor hot water.
Your Sustainable Housing Energy Advisor can advise you on the energy savings that can be achieved from various alternative heating system options for your new home.
Domestic Hot Water:
Domestic water heating is typically the second biggest energy expense in homes, second only to space heating. Fortunately, we now have alternatives to conventional oil and electric hot water systems.
Read MoreSolar pre-heating is one of those options. Heat from the sun is collected from solar panels and used to pre-heat the water going into your water heater, thus reducing the amount of energy required to heat your hot water. Solar can reduce the energy required to heat your water by up to 50%.
Another option for pre-heating your water is drain water heat recovery. This device captures heat from your drain pipe as the drain water is flowing through it, using that heat energy to pre-heat the water going into the water heater. When running the shower, it can recover up to 40% of the heat that would normally be wasted.
Air Leakage:
Air leakage is an important consideration in all homes, and is a direct cost to you. The air leakage is measured by a test conducted on your home after it is built. This test involves closing all doors and windows, sealing all vents, and installing a fan in one of your door openings. The fan is then turned on to blow air out of the house, which will cause a slight negative pressure inside the house. Sensitive measuring equipment will determine the air leakage rate of the house, which is expressed in Air Changes per Hour (ACH) @ -50Pa. An energy efficient house should have an air leakage rate of 2.0 ACH or lower.
Read MoreBuilding an air tight house requires careful attention to detail. For example:
Spray foam around all doors, windows, and other gaps in the envelope
Continuous, sealed vapour barrier
Properly sealed trays around all electrical boxes on exterior walls and ceilings
Sealing/caulking around all penetrations in the building envelope, such as plumbing and electrical services
A house can never be too airtight. Today’s new homes have ventilation systems to provide a continuous supply of fresh air. See ventilation below for more information. Also, because new homes have very little natural air infiltration, all combustion appliances, including oil, gas and wood, must have a direct air intake for combustion air.
Ventilation:
Proper ventilation is a critical factor in an energy efficient home. Newer, more air tight homes require a ventilation system to control excess humidity and ensure a continuous supply of clean, breathable air.
The solution to ventilation in an air tight home is called a Heat Recovery Ventilator, or “HRV”. The HRV system allows the home to maintain high indoor air quality without excessive additional energy costs. It works by recovering some of the heat from the outgoing air to heat the incoming air. The result is a continuous supply of fresh air without losing all of the heat from the stale air being exhausted from the home.
Read MoreNot all HRVs are created equal. Some are more efficient than others. There are two factors to consider when assessing the efficiency of HRVs:
1. Sensible Recovery Efficiency: This is a measure of how much heat the unit can recovery from the outgoing air. The higher the rating, the lower the demand on your heating system to heat the incoming air.
2. Power consumption: HRVs are designed to, and should run continuously. The power consumption of the unit is therefore an important consideration.
Visit www.hvi.org for information HRVs and ratings on specific models. Investing in a high efficiency HRV can save you money in the long run!!.
Finally, it is important that the HRV be sized correctly for your home and be properly installed and balanced. Deal with a reputable supplier.
There have been significant improvements in window construction in recent years. A newer Energy Star vinyl window is approximately 50% more efficient than a conventional double-pane vinyl frame window.
Read MoreEnergy Star is a certification program designed to ensure windows meet certain minimum specifications, including:
Low E, or low emissivity coating: This is a thin, invisible coating on the glass surface that causes more of the infra-red energy in the room to be reflected back into the room during the heating season. It has a similar effect in the summer, reflecting energy from the sun to the exterior, helping to keep the interior cooler.
Argon gas filled: The space between the glass panes is filled with argon gas instead of air. Argon is a more viscous gas than air, resulting in a higher insulating value.
Insulated spacers: The glass spacers in an Energy Star window are made of a non-metallic insulating material. Because metal is a superb heat conductor, metal spacers on older windows account for a significant amount of heat loss.
Air tightness: Energy Star windows must also meet certain air tightness standards resulting in less cold air infiltration.
Window orientation should also be considered when designing your new home. South facing windows offer the benefit of solar gain, while North facing windows do not. Higher efficiencies can be achieved by orienting the larger windows more to the South and smaller windows more to the North.
Doors:
Newer, Energy Star rated doors offer greater insulating value and air tightness as compared to conventional wood or steel doors.
Read MoreIf there is a window in an Energy Star rated door, that window is also Energy Star rated.
Energy Star rated doors are available in conventional steel finishes, or in fibreglass finishes for a more natural wood appearance.
Newer, Energy Star rated doors offer greater insulating value and air tightness as compared to conventional wood or steel doors.
Read MoreIf there is a window in an Energy Star rated door, that window is also Energy Star rated.
Energy Star rated doors are available in conventional steel finishes, or in fibreglass finishes for a more natural wood appearance.
Main Walls:
Today’s high-performance insulating materials and sophisticated application procedures make it possible to achieve significantly higher insulation values in the walls than in previous years.
Read MoreAs a minimum, we recommend a minimum R value of 25 for wall insulation. The preferred method of achieving R25 walls is by insulating the wall cavity with R20 fibreglass batts, and adding a layer of R5 rigid board insulation on the exterior under the siding. The exterior layer of insulation improves the effective R value of the wall assembly by significantly reducing the heat loss that occurs as a result of thermal bridging.
Higher R values can easily be obtained by installing R24 high density fibreglass batts in the wall cavity, and up to R10 rigid insulation under the siding, for a total R value of up 34. As an alternative to fibreglass batts, spray foam insulation can be applied in the wall cavity, offering the advantage of improved air sealing.
Your main walls make up the largest exterior surface area in your home. Upgrading wall insulation can therefore have a major impact on reducing your overall energy consumption.
Today’s high-performance insulating materials and sophisticated application procedures make it possible to achieve significantly higher insulation values in the walls than in previous years.
Read MoreAs a minimum, we recommend a minimum R value of 25 for wall insulation. The preferred method of achieving R25 walls is by insulating the wall cavity with R20 fibreglass batts, and adding a layer of R5 rigid board insulation on the exterior under the siding. The exterior layer of insulation improves the effective R value of the wall assembly by significantly reducing the heat loss that occurs as a result of thermal bridging.
Higher R values can easily be obtained by installing R24 high density fibreglass batts in the wall cavity, and up to R10 rigid insulation under the siding, for a total R value of up 34. As an alternative to fibreglass batts, spray foam insulation can be applied in the wall cavity, offering the advantage of improved air sealing.
Your main walls make up the largest exterior surface area in your home. Upgrading wall insulation can therefore have a major impact on reducing your overall energy consumption.
Basement Walls:
Basement Walls:
Un-insulated or poorly insulated basement walls can result in a significant amount of heat loss, even if the basement is not used as living space. Concrete has a very low insulation value, and as long the temperature in the basement is higher than the outdoor temperature, there is heat loss through the basement wall.
Read MoreThankfully, there are various effective methods and materials for insulating basement walls. The most common include spray foam insulation, rigid board insulation, fibreglass batts, or a combination of rigid board and fibreglass.
Insulated concrete form construction, or “ICF”, is also a very effective way to insulate a basement. With ICF construction, the concrete wall is poured in between two layers of rigid foam insulation, resulting in a continuous layer of insulation on both sides of the concrete wall. ICF is also the preferred method of construction for frost walls on slab houses as it provides insulation in an area that is not accessible after the house is framed.
Your Sustainable Housing Energy Advisor can advise you on various options for insulating the basement walls in your home.
Basement Floor/Slab:
Whether your house is built on a slab or has a full basement, the slab or basement floor insulation should not be overlooked when designing your new home. Because heat radiates in all directions, including down, a significant amount of heat loss can occur through the basement floor.
Read MoreFurthermore, regardless of how far below ground your basement floor is, if left un-insulated, it will be cooler than the rest of your house and will present a surface on which condensation will occur.
We recommend a minimum of R10 rigid board insulation under the poured concrete floor. There will never be a better time to insulate the slab than before the concrete floor is poured!
Heating Systems:
Today, we have high efficiency alternatives to conventional heating systems. In particular, heat pumps can dramatically reduce the amount of energy required to heat your home.
Read MoreThere are two basic types of heat pumps:
Air Source Heat Pumps: These draw energy from the air outside and use that energy to heat the inside of your home. Air source heat pumps use 2-3 times less energy than oil or electric baseboard heating systems. Delivery is typically a fully ducted forced air system. In some cases, ductless heat pumps may be suitable in smaller homes.
Geothermal heat pumps: Also known as “ground source” heat pumps. These draw energy from the ground and use that energy to heat the inside of your home. Because the energy is captured below the frost line, where the temperature remains relatively constant even on the coldest days of the winter, they are even more efficient than air source heat pumps. Delivery is typically a fully ducted forced air system or in-floor hot water.
Your Sustainable Housing Energy Advisor can advise you on the energy savings that can be achieved from various alternative heating system options for your new home.
Domestic Hot Water:
Domestic water heating is typically the second biggest energy expense in homes, second only to space heating. Fortunately, we now have alternatives to conventional oil and electric hot water systems.
Read MoreSolar pre-heating is one of those options. Heat from the sun is collected from solar panels and used to pre-heat the water going into your water heater, thus reducing the amount of energy required to heat your hot water. Solar can reduce the energy required to heat your water by up to 50%.
Another option for pre-heating your water is drain water heat recovery. This device captures heat from your drain pipe as the drain water is flowing through it, using that heat energy to pre-heat the water going into the water heater. When running the shower, it can recover up to 40% of the heat that would normally be wasted.
Air Leakage:
Air leakage is an important consideration in all homes, and is a direct cost to you. The air leakage is measured by a test conducted on your home after it is built. This test involves closing all doors and windows, sealing all vents, and installing a fan in one of your door openings. The fan is then turned on to blow air out of the house, which will cause a slight negative pressure inside the house. Sensitive measuring equipment will determine the air leakage rate of the house, which is expressed in Air Changes per Hour (ACH) @ -50Pa. An energy efficient house should have an air leakage rate of 2.0 ACH or lower.
Read MoreBuilding an air tight house requires careful attention to detail. For example:
Spray foam around all doors, windows, and other gaps in the envelope
Continuous, sealed vapour barrier
Properly sealed trays around all electrical boxes on exterior walls and ceilings
Sealing/caulking around all penetrations in the building envelope, such as plumbing and electrical services
A house can never be too airtight. Today’s new homes have ventilation systems to provide a continuous supply of fresh air. See ventilation below for more information. Also, because new homes have very little natural air infiltration, all combustion appliances, including oil, gas and wood, must have a direct air intake for combustion air.
Ventilation:
Proper ventilation is a critical factor in an energy efficient home. Newer, more air tight homes require a ventilation system to control excess humidity and ensure a continuous supply of clean, breathable air.
The solution to ventilation in an air tight home is called a Heat Recovery Ventilator, or “HRV”. The HRV system allows the home to maintain high indoor air quality without excessive additional energy costs. It works by recovering some of the heat from the outgoing air to heat the incoming air. The result is a continuous supply of fresh air without losing all of the heat from the stale air being exhausted from the home.
Read MoreNot all HRVs are created equal. Some are more efficient than others. There are two factors to consider when assessing the efficiency of HRVs:
1. Sensible Recovery Efficiency: This is a measure of how much heat the unit can recovery from the outgoing air. The higher the rating, the lower the demand on your heating system to heat the incoming air.
2. Power consumption: HRVs are designed to, and should run continuously. The power consumption of the unit is therefore an important consideration.
Visit www.hvi.org for information HRVs and ratings on specific models. Investing in a high efficiency HRV can save you money in the long run!!.
Finally, it is important that the HRV be sized correctly for your home and be properly installed and balanced. Deal with a reputable supplier.
Un-insulated or poorly insulated basement walls can result in a significant amount of heat loss, even if the basement is not used as living space. Concrete has a very low insulation value, and as long the temperature in the basement is higher than the outdoor temperature, there is heat loss through the basement wall.
Read MoreThankfully, there are various effective methods and materials for insulating basement walls. The most common include spray foam insulation, rigid board insulation, fibreglass batts, or a combination of rigid board and fibreglass.
Insulated concrete form construction, or “ICF”, is also a very effective way to insulate a basement. With ICF construction, the concrete wall is poured in between two layers of rigid foam insulation, resulting in a continuous layer of insulation on both sides of the concrete wall. ICF is also the preferred method of construction for frost walls on slab houses as it provides insulation in an area that is not accessible after the house is framed.
Your Sustainable Housing Energy Advisor can advise you on various options for insulating the basement walls in your home.
Basement Floor/Slab:
Basement Floor/Slab:
Whether your house is built on a slab or has a full basement, the slab or basement floor insulation should not be overlooked when designing your new home. Because heat radiates in all directions, including down, a significant amount of heat loss can occur through the basement floor.
Read MoreFurthermore, regardless of how far below ground your basement floor is, if left un-insulated, it will be cooler than the rest of your house and will present a surface on which condensation will occur.
We recommend a minimum of R10 rigid board insulation under the poured concrete floor. There will never be a better time to insulate the slab than before the concrete floor is poured!
Heating Systems:
Today, we have high efficiency alternatives to conventional heating systems. In particular, heat pumps can dramatically reduce the amount of energy required to heat your home.
Read MoreThere are two basic types of heat pumps:
Air Source Heat Pumps: These draw energy from the air outside and use that energy to heat the inside of your home. Air source heat pumps use 2-3 times less energy than oil or electric baseboard heating systems. Delivery is typically a fully ducted forced air system. In some cases, ductless heat pumps may be suitable in smaller homes.
Geothermal heat pumps: Also known as “ground source” heat pumps. These draw energy from the ground and use that energy to heat the inside of your home. Because the energy is captured below the frost line, where the temperature remains relatively constant even on the coldest days of the winter, they are even more efficient than air source heat pumps. Delivery is typically a fully ducted forced air system or in-floor hot water.
Your Sustainable Housing Energy Advisor can advise you on the energy savings that can be achieved from various alternative heating system options for your new home.
Whether your house is built on a slab or has a full basement, the slab or basement floor insulation should not be overlooked when designing your new home. Because heat radiates in all directions, including down, a significant amount of heat loss can occur through the basement floor.
Read MoreFurthermore, regardless of how far below ground your basement floor is, if left un-insulated, it will be cooler than the rest of your house and will present a surface on which condensation will occur.
We recommend a minimum of R10 rigid board insulation under the poured concrete floor. There will never be a better time to insulate the slab than before the concrete floor is poured!
Today, we have high efficiency alternatives to conventional heating systems. In particular, heat pumps can dramatically reduce the amount of energy required to heat your home.
Read MoreThere are two basic types of heat pumps:
Air Source Heat Pumps: These draw energy from the air outside and use that energy to heat the inside of your home. Air source heat pumps use 2-3 times less energy than oil or electric baseboard heating systems. Delivery is typically a fully ducted forced air system. In some cases, ductless heat pumps may be suitable in smaller homes.
Geothermal heat pumps: Also known as “ground source” heat pumps. These draw energy from the ground and use that energy to heat the inside of your home. Because the energy is captured below the frost line, where the temperature remains relatively constant even on the coldest days of the winter, they are even more efficient than air source heat pumps. Delivery is typically a fully ducted forced air system or in-floor hot water.
Your Sustainable Housing Energy Advisor can advise you on the energy savings that can be achieved from various alternative heating system options for your new home.
Domestic Hot Water:
Domestic water heating is typically the second biggest energy expense in homes, second only to space heating. Fortunately, we now have alternatives to conventional oil and electric hot water systems.
Read MoreSolar pre-heating is one of those options. Heat from the sun is collected from solar panels and used to pre-heat the water going into your water heater, thus reducing the amount of energy required to heat your hot water. Solar can reduce the energy required to heat your water by up to 50%.
Another option for pre-heating your water is drain water heat recovery. This device captures heat from your drain pipe as the drain water is flowing through it, using that heat energy to pre-heat the water going into the water heater. When running the shower, it can recover up to 40% of the heat that would normally be wasted.
Domestic water heating is typically the second biggest energy expense in homes, second only to space heating. Fortunately, we now have alternatives to conventional oil and electric hot water systems.
Read MoreSolar pre-heating is one of those options. Heat from the sun is collected from solar panels and used to pre-heat the water going into your water heater, thus reducing the amount of energy required to heat your hot water. Solar can reduce the energy required to heat your water by up to 50%.
Another option for pre-heating your water is drain water heat recovery. This device captures heat from your drain pipe as the drain water is flowing through it, using that heat energy to pre-heat the water going into the water heater. When running the shower, it can recover up to 40% of the heat that would normally be wasted.
Air Leakage:
Air leakage is an important consideration in all homes, and is a direct cost to you. The air leakage is measured by a test conducted on your home after it is built. This test involves closing all doors and windows, sealing all vents, and installing a fan in one of your door openings. The fan is then turned on to blow air out of the house, which will cause a slight negative pressure inside the house. Sensitive measuring equipment will determine the air leakage rate of the house, which is expressed in Air Changes per Hour (ACH) @ -50Pa. An energy efficient house should have an air leakage rate of 2.0 ACH or lower.
Read MoreBuilding an air tight house requires careful attention to detail. For example:
Spray foam around all doors, windows, and other gaps in the envelope
Continuous, sealed vapour barrier
Properly sealed trays around all electrical boxes on exterior walls and ceilings
Sealing/caulking around all penetrations in the building envelope, such as plumbing and electrical services
A house can never be too airtight. Today’s new homes have ventilation systems to provide a continuous supply of fresh air. See ventilation below for more information. Also, because new homes have very little natural air infiltration, all combustion appliances, including oil, gas and wood, must have a direct air intake for combustion air.
Ventilation:
Proper ventilation is a critical factor in an energy efficient home. Newer, more air tight homes require a ventilation system to control excess humidity and ensure a continuous supply of clean, breathable air.
The solution to ventilation in an air tight home is called a Heat Recovery Ventilator, or “HRV”. The HRV system allows the home to maintain high indoor air quality without excessive additional energy costs. It works by recovering some of the heat from the outgoing air to heat the incoming air. The result is a continuous supply of fresh air without losing all of the heat from the stale air being exhausted from the home.
Read MoreNot all HRVs are created equal. Some are more efficient than others. There are two factors to consider when assessing the efficiency of HRVs:
1. Sensible Recovery Efficiency: This is a measure of how much heat the unit can recovery from the outgoing air. The higher the rating, the lower the demand on your heating system to heat the incoming air.
2. Power consumption: HRVs are designed to, and should run continuously. The power consumption of the unit is therefore an important consideration.
Visit www.hvi.org for information HRVs and ratings on specific models. Investing in a high efficiency HRV can save you money in the long run!!.
Finally, it is important that the HRV be sized correctly for your home and be properly installed and balanced. Deal with a reputable supplier.
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